Keys to Success!

A nice lawn is achieved by two things: 1) timely, accurate, and appropriate treatments and 2) good cultural practices (mowing, watering, etc.) While Effin’ Turf, LLC is prepared to handle #1 with excellence, you or your delegated personnel are responsible for handling #2. Please read below as I lay out some basic practices that can help you understand southern turfs and help manage expectations.

Mowing:

-Mowing needs to occur routinely, with sharp blades, and without removing more than 1/3 the length of grass. If you want to maintain a shorter height of cut, that means you need to maintain a more frequent schedule. Example: I maintain my zoysia at .75 inches, meaning I mow every 3 days at a minimum.

-To avoid ruts in your lawn, change the direction of mowing by 45 degrees each mow. If you have a lawn care company mow your lawn, its vital you tell them (and ensure they listen) to change directions. Otherwise, they WILL leave ruts, and they WILL tear the grass at the consistent turnaround points.

-As long as you’re mowing frequently enough, I advise to mulch clippings so the nutrients can go back to the soil. If you missed a mow due to excess rain or vacation, bag and dispose of the clippings to avoid thatch buildup.

Irrigation:

-Most southern turfs need between 1-1.5” of water per week. To measure your output, I advise you google the “tuna can test” to evaluate your system.

-INFREQUENT and DEEP waterings are best, as the soil is moistened deeper, which drives roots deeper, creating a healthier plant. Two to three waterings per week is typically sufficient.

-During times of extreme heat or draught, areas of your grass may appear grey or dull, and the blades will be thinner. These areas will require spot watering from a hose. If the whole lawn appears dry, consider adding a few short mid-day cycles in the week.

-Water is what keeps your grass from going into survival mode via dormancy. While overwatering has its own issues (encourages weeds like doveweed, sedge, kyllinga; and fungus) under watering will almost guarantee a struggling lawn.

-Avoid watering late enough in the day that the grass blades remain wet after sunset. This fosters an environment for fungal activity.

Sunlight:

-Bermuda and centipede need 8 legitimate hours of sunlight to thrive. Any less, and you can expect thinning over time. Most zoysia cultivars need approx. 6 hours, and St. Augustine can get by with 4-6. No amount of desire, mowing, or treatments can make up for a lack of photosynthesis. Take an honest assessment of your lawn, considering the movement of shadows from trees, fences, structures, etc. throughout the day.

Traffic:

-All grasses are not made equally. Centipede, for instance, does not tolerate moderate/high foot traffic (including dogs). Zoysia and bermuda handle traffic much better, with bermuda being the best due to its rapid repair capability. This is another consideration while managing expectations or considering a lawn restoration.

-Dogs and grass don’t get along very well. Even if you don’t have a digger, the urine burn-stains take a toll even on bermuda lawns. Consider training your dog to utilize landscaping beds rather than the grass. My dumb 5 year old golden retriever figured it out, so yours can too!

If you ever have a question, or are about to do something to your lawn but aren’t sure if its appropriate, do not hesitate to reach out!